It started last month when I realized I need more basics, and I'm still sewing knit shirts. In fact, I am still sewing the same pattern. I think I have made about 10 versions of the Lydia now. Anyway, I loved the bird pajama top so much I decided to make something like it to wear during the day.
I got this pattern off the Burda site back when it was free and have hacked the pattern so many times--it's just the download that keeps on giving. This time, I raised the center neckline by 2.75 inches and widened the neckline by 2", made a new facing to match and shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length. (I took pictures of the whole process it you are interested.) Must say, I love this style.
(Working on my attitude with the self-timer.)
I'm also getting along much better with my serger. I only took me about 30 minutes to change the thread color! But, I am also developing serger envy, because mine doesn't have a cover stitch for hems, and knit hems have always been my nemesis. They are usually too stretched and I get skipped stitches. To solve the skipped stitch problem, I could paint the hem with a stabilizer or use tissue paper, but I find these solutions messy and annoying. This time around I made a mock-overlock hem by first serging the bottom so that the edge was stabilized by all that thread, turning it to the wrong side, and then topstitching right over the middle of serged edge with a twin stretch needle. Best hem yet, but still not perfect.
But, my biggest problem remains: I have such a hard time predicting how knit fabrics are going to behave. When I made the cowls with this pattern I had to narrow the shirt by almost 4 inches because the super drapey bamboo wanted to expand.
For this shirt I used a very high quality organic cotton/lycra knit. Even though it is pretty thin and stretchy it has such substance and elastic might, that it really is too small. (You can see evidence of this is the wrinkles under my armpit.) I have enough fabric to make another, but that seems tiresome.
In this picture you see another problem. When I topstitched the facing, the inside got torqued. After ripping and redoing the back three times this was as good as it got. I guess I should have used a walking foot. Any other hints ? Should the facing be a smidge smaller than the body?
So, I love this top, and yet I look at the details and wish I had more control over the details. Well, what's new? Still, I am accepting any and all tips for the next version. . .
